Andalusional

Here in the U.K. we have a period of time anxiously awaited by some and dreaded by others: half-term. Half-term is the week dropped in the middle of the school trimester and designed to give children a break and send parents scrambling for some type of activity or voyage. We chose the latter. I chose Spain.

I have always wanted to visit Seville, but my desire to see Andalucia and, in particular, the Alhambra palace and compound, began with a historical novel I read last year about Queen Catherine of Aragon (first wife of Henry VIII), who grew up there before being shipped to England to marry Hank. Moorish palaces, fountains, mosaics... it all sounded so romantic. So, for our last family trip as a party of three -- who were also hankering for some warmer and un-rainy weather -- I thought it would be the perfect choice.

Now 30 weeks along, I was fairly wrought with anxiety about the trip. Having read horror stories about EasyJet tossing heavily pregnant women off planes, even stranding them in faraway lands. I did procure, according to the EasyJet website, a "fit-to-fly" certificate from my doctor, and stashed photocopies throughout our luggage. Of course, I made it through three check-in points and safely onto the plane without anyone even noticing I was with child. In fact, the flights were smooth in both directions, making us – for the moment – EasyJet fans. No snacks, reading materials, or perks, but it was Easy, and it was a Jet. Not sure what else we could expect for 70 quid a ticket!

We landed in Malaga, where Jeff was thrilled to find the Volkswagen Golf I'd reserved upgraded to an Audi A4, very similar to the car we're renting here in Bath. Too similar for Josie, who claimed the car was "stinky," and made her sick, and then threw a giant fit every time we approached the vehicle for a leg of the voyage.

Unfortunately for Josie, this holiday was a string of long car trips; fortunately for all of us, the visuals were stunning. Having only been to Madrid and Barcelona, I was completely unprepared for the raw beauty of the Andalusian countryside! We had two hours to marvel at snow-capped mountains and endless olive groves before approaching the very urban Sevilla. Our hotel, the clean, lovely, and centrally-located Vincci La Rabida, parked our car and checked us in promptly.

Josie on our balcony at the Vincci La Rabida

We spent a lovely two days exploring Seville -- lots of tapas (read: savory choices mostly forbidden to pregnant women and repugnant to three-year-old palates, but served with a smile by adoring Spaniards), lounging around plazas having coffees, and touring landmarks. My favorite was the Real Alcazar (Moorish palace), while Jeff favored the Minaret (former Mosque tower, up which he pushed Josie 34 flights) and Josie looooved the Flamenco Museum, with its movies and paintings of "Flamingo Girls."

The incredible Real Alcazar

The Minaret / Cathedral

Then, it was on to our next destination, Ronda – which would become home base for the rest of the trip. Because I know you'll all want to visit Andalucia after reading this, I'll keep the travel tips coming: Hotel Fuente de la Higuera is a don't-miss.

We couldn't decide which was the best feature: the Scandinavian white-washed decor, the enormous, comfortable (rare for European hotels) bed, the gorgeous mountain views, or the stellar, French-trained chef who nightly prepared four-star, three-course meals. OK, actually it's easy. The food was the best part. And since it was low season, and our villa-mates were largely vacationing couples who preferred to eat out in Ronda every night, we largely had the dining room to ourselves.... kinda like having our own private chef. The staff were all lovely, especially to Josie -- keeping her entertained with doodling materials and happy with kid-friendly meals every night.

We spent a couple of afternoons exploring the town of Ronda itself – an artsy, colorful place immortalized in Hemingway's Spain-based works like The Sun Also Rises and A Farewell to Arms. Jeff and Josie loved the storied, famous bullfighting ring and museum, and I loved the historic old churches, stunning views, and great shopping!

Charge!

Then, with the guidance of Javier, our hotel's cute and friendly concierge, it was off to explore the "Pueblos Blancos", about a dozen whitewashed villages set into the various hillsides and plateaux that dot the area. Navigating steep curves over death-defying drops, we hit the tiny, beautiful Grazelema, the tinier, charming Zahara, and the lovely Olvera, famous for both its olive oil and Moorish fortress. We climbed thousand-year-old ruins, ate Spanish pastries and more tapas, and drank in the incredible landscapes.

Looking back on beautiful Grazalema

Breathtaking Andalusia

Atop a Moorish fortress in Olvera

Finally, it was time for the pilgrimage that inspired the entire trip -- Granada and its sprawling, magnificent Alhambra, a palace, fortress and compound built and ruled peacefully by the Moors until it caught the eye of Spanish monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella. This was a sight I'd put right up there with the town of Pisa – just as imposing and fantastical as I'd expected. The architecture, the Mosaics, the pools and fountains, and the rich history made this truly the visit of a lifetime!

Just one of the Alhambra's magnificent arches and courtyards

Turkish Baths

Our last big day trip was to Jerez de la Frontera, a beautiful, cosmopolitan little town made famous for its production of a blended wine called Jerez, which – after the English had a sip and fell in love – became known around the world as "sherry." The town is equally famous for its Andalusian Dancing Horses and Royal Equestrian school, so we made sure to watch the famed horses practice their high-steps before hotfooting it (literally - somehow we almost missed the tour twice) to Tio Pepe for a fun and informational tour and tasting!). The sherry we tasted was actually quite dry, and meant to be drunk with tapas or a meal and finished quickly (i.e. not sitting in your cupboard for decades for cooking and serving to Aunt Mildred). The tour had something for everyone – Jeff got to relive his college days and Josie was fascinated by the little ladder and glass left for the cellar's mice.

Bring on the Dancing Horses

Jeff and "Uncle Juan" as he was really named

Mousie Happy Hour (shiver, gag)

We spent our last day in the Spanish countryside sunning in the 70-degree sun on our balcony, reading, traipsing around Ronda for last souvenirs, and sampling local delicacies (oxtail, for me! tastes like brisket!). It was more than a tad bittersweet as I realized this would be our last journey as a party of three – especially as Josie had been such an amazing traveler during the entire trip.

I know this won't be our last European Vacation (and certainly not the last to lampoon!) but it will always be a special memory for me! If anyone's planning a visit, I have lots of tips and tricks to share – primarily, Arriba, Arriba!

Adios, mes amis.